Ecuadorian delight
Cotoa (North Miami)
RESTAURANTS • First Word
The Skinny: Opened last spring on a deceptively unassuming corner in North Miami, Cotoa is Ecuadorian chef Alejandra Espinoza’s first endeavor in the US and a follow-up to Somos, her much-loved restaurant in Quito.
The Vibe: Bright, sun-drenched, and (with just 24 seats) cozy. There’s almost a Scandinavian minimalism at play in the whitewashed dining room with its broken tile floors and blonde wood furniture. Every table has a view of the tiny open kitchen.
The Food: If you’re here with a group, you can easily order the entire menu, starting with pillowy, gooey pan de yuca. Mahi mahi manicera, a ceviche with a peanut and coconut sauce, is gorgeously plated, bright, and flavorful. Among entrees, cangrejada con patacón — blue crab in a creamy tomato sauce over coconut rice with tostones — rocked my world. For dessert, the chocopop is an indulgent chocolate lava cake.
The Drinks: There’s a tightly edited list of wines from regions around the world, local and Ecuadorian beers, and a refreshing house-made dragon fruit tea.
The Verdict: Cotoa ranks as one of the most delightfully unexpected meals I’ve had all year: bright, fresh, flavorful cooking by a talented chef from a corner of South America underrepresented on the Miami dining scene. –Amber Love Bond
→ Cotoa (North Miami) • 12475 NE 6th Ct • Wed-Thu 530-930p, Fri-Sun 1230-330p & 530-930p • Reserve.